‘We desire a dream over controversy’: Chanel at Paris vogue week | Chanel

Just like the Eiffel Tower above the town, the position of Chanel is to “rise above” Paris vogue at the same time as it’s blindsided by catwalk antics corresponding to these of Kanye West, stated the model’s president of vogue, Bruno Pavlovsky.

“Trend week encompasses lots of the emotions of the second,” Pavlovsky stated earlier than his present on the final day of Paris vogue week. “However at Chanel we desire a dream, some serenity, over controversy.”

Chanel designer Virginie Viard primarily based her newest assortment on Alain Resnais’s New Wave basic Final Yr at Marienbad, which gained the Lion d’Or on the Venice movie pageant in 1961. Coco Chanel designed the on-screen wardrobe for its star, Delphine Seyrig. The ageless, out-of-time stylish of the wardrobe Chanel created for Seyrig, which included a basic Chanel two-piece go well with and a black chiffon cocktail costume, was particularly plotted to reinforce the advanced storytelling of the avant-garde twists in chronology of the movie, during which the story unfolds in enigmatic flashbacks.

The Chanel present viewers had been seated cinema-style in entrance of a large display exhibiting a montage of scenes from the movie. Fashions catwalked in entrance of the display, sporting garments as a consequence of go on sale in Chanel boutiques subsequent spring however that would very simply have been on movie in 1961. The basic black chiffon cocktail clothes, ladylike polka dots and supple, elongated night robes emphasised the timelessness of the Chanel aesthetic. The feather trim of a cream robe worn within the movie confirmed up on a number of outfits, from occasion clothes to tweed fits.

Creations by designer Virginie Viard at the Chanel show
Creations by designer Virginie Viard on the Chanel present. {Photograph}: Johanna Geron/Reuters

Talking earlier than the present, Pavlovsky burdened the significance to the model of Chanel’s continued dedication to bricks and mortar retail over e-commerce. “We have now extra clients coming into our boutiques, in each location, than ever earlier than,” he stated. “Chanel just isn’t a couple of product, it’s a couple of silhouette and a spirit. The perfect place to expertise the silhouette is in a dressing room. With digital you possibly can see the product, however you possibly can’t see the spirit. The artistic vitality that you just expertise in a boutique is one of the simplest ways for us to quantify the worth of Chanel.”

Pavlovsky added that Chanel’s technique of world worth alignment, interpreted by some commentators as a primary step towards e-commerce, was “one of the simplest ways for us to organise ourselves at a time of so many financial tensions. There may be a lot uncertainty – for example, we take a look at what is going on within the UK – and we now have to verify we construct the correct circumstances for Chanel to proceed to be artistic.”

On 6 December, a present in Dakar, Senegal, would be the first Chanel present to be held in Africa. “This was Virginie [Viard]’s initiative,” stated Pavlovsky. “Once you take a look at a map, Chanel has been all over the place on the planet apart from Africa. From day one, Virginie stated that this was one thing essential lacking from Chanel.” He added that the selection of Dakar displays the town’s prominence as a focus for contemporary African artwork, in addition to its heritage of expertise.