‘All the things In all places All at As soon as’ Costume Designer Shirley Kurata Has Deep Trend Roots

ByLouise McGinnis

Mar 10, 2023

Shirley Kurata, who’s nominated for the Oscar on Sunday for Greatest Costume Design on “All the things In all places All at As soon as,” was additionally behind the scenes of one of the crucial memorable vogue runway exhibits of the ladies’s fall 2023 season: Rodarte’s Gothic fairytale.

She’s styled the California label’s exhibits since fall 2006, and by no means missed a season, even when she was filming the film and needed to rush out the door from the autumn 2020 present and hop on a aircraft to be again on set.

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Engaged on Rodarte’s runway exhibits — which take inspiration from every thing from Japanese slasher movies to vampires to the gritty Santa Cruz, California, boardwalk — was not in contrast to engaged on Daniel Kwan and Daniel Scheinert’s movie, a young household story wrapped up in a bonkers multiverse journey.

“The exhibits Kate and Laura [Mulleavy] do are nearly like brief movies. For this season, the temper was very Goth, black attire, slinky and lengthy, after which easing into this Victorian world and sprinkling in parts of colour and ending with these fairy robes that their mom did the drawings for, and this wonderful silver winged look,” says Kurata. “There’s a story there and it’s similar to the way you’d design a film in what feelings you wish to characterize in a scene. A present is extra speedy, however you wish to construct one thing, a sense of drama, etherealness.”

Kurata is an L.A. model fixture with a bespectacled picture that makes her as recognizable as one other legendary movie costume designer. “I did at all times love Edith Head,” she says.

She has labored on movies with the Linda Lindas, a world tour with Billie Eilish, styled Jenny Lewis and Tierra Whack, and carried out campaigns for manufacturers Miu Miu, Melissa and Vans, to not point out tons of economic work for Westfield, Goal and extra. And he or she’s a retailer, co-owner of Virgil Regular in East Hollywood, a former bike store turned clubhouse that shares up-and-coming labels.

The collaboration between Kurata and Rodarte got here by means of an introduction from mutual pal, movie director/photographer Autumn de Wilde. “The day earlier than the present, we realized we didn’t know how one can arrange or coordinate getting everybody dressed,” says Laura Mulleavy, explaining that Kurata flew out that evening. “She’s been one among our greatest associates ever since.”

Rodarte RTW Fall 2023

Rodarte, fall 2023

Kurata, who gained the award for finest sci-fi/fantasy movie on the 2023 Costume Designers Guild Awards, shall be sporting Rodarte to the Oscars on Sunday.

“It’s very uncommon with trendy costume design to be acknowledged and the very fact this [film] was exhibits how the neighborhood has been so behind this movie,” says Mulleavy.

For Kurata, the film is a fruits of 20 years within the vogue and leisure enterprise.

She was introduced onto the venture by one among its producers, Jonathan Wang, whom she’d labored with earlier than on commercials.

“I’m tremendous grateful they took an opportunity with me,” says Kurata, explaining that The Daniels gave her a Pinterest web page of seems to be they thought have been cool, however gave her the liberty to have enjoyable. “They stated make costumes individuals will wish to costume up in for Halloween,” says Kurata. “And this previous Halloween, I used to be very relieved!

“The funds for the whole movie was in all probability the funds for one Marvel costume, so it was very tight,” she says, noting she took inspiration for Jobu Tupaki/Pleasure Wang’s multiverse-jumping personas from every thing from Comme des Garçons to Jeremy Scott’s teddy bear-covered streetwear.

Kurata is from a Japanese American household however grew up in Monterey Park, California, the place her mother and father owned a laundromat, just like the Chinese language American immigrant household within the movie.

EVERYTHING EVERYWHERE ALL AT ONCE, Stephanie Hsu, 2022.  ph: Allyson Riggs /© A24 / Courtesy Everett Collection

Stephanie Hsu in “All the things In all places All at As soon as.”

“Rising up, I’d typically tag together with my mother or dad, in order that entire story of being the daughter of an immigrant household, I completely understood that. Additionally the generational trauma Pleasure was going by means of and the disconnect, even simply the language. However I additionally know my mother and father would sacrifice their life for me. Despite the fact that it was by no means spoken,” says Kurata. “Generally ‘I really like you’ comes out as ‘you’re getting fats.’ Or with my mother, it was ‘why don’t you get some contact lenses?’”

(Kurata’s eyeglasses have grow to be such a private model trademark, they landed her a marketing campaign with L.A. Eyeworks.)

Shirley Kurata for L.A. Eyeworks

Shirley Kurata for L.A. Eyeworks.

When she was researching how one can costume laundromat proprietor Evelyn (Michelle Yeoh), she went to her personal mother and checked out her fleece vest. “Positively an Asian mother factor,” says Kurata. “I additionally went to Chinatown in L.A., to Saigon Plaza. I obtained a lot of issues there.”

In the meantime, daughter Pleasure (Stephanie Hsu) has a disaffected look. “We needed to indicate she was rebelling in opposition to her mom, and dressing grunge was a means she was doing it.”

IRS agent Dierdre (Jamie Lee Curtis) was all mustard-yellow schlump — and no padding. “She would simply chill out her physique and let all of it out, it was nice,” says Kurata.

Pleasure’s alter ego Jobu Tupaki’s multiverse skipping seems to be vary from a Comme des Garcons-inspired jumble to designer head-to-toe tartan designed by Claudia Li. “This was pre-COVID[-19], however for me it was Asian. I stated let’s have her put on an identical masks and visor and we are going to see this all plaid look.”

With the rise in anti-Asian sentiment, Kurata is humbled by the eye the movie has gotten.

“It’s nice we proved a film with Asian leads could possibly be profitable…There’s this entire factor about immigrants are harmful or freeloaders, and the bulk who’re right here simply wish to make a greater life for his or her household and the film did present that. And for me, success isn’t at all times confirmed by monetary success. Ke [Waymond Wang] to me, his character’s weapon is kindness. To me, he’s spiritually profitable, and in your deathbed, do you wish to look again on what number of mansions and vehicles you had, or have been you a superb particular person? To spotlight that with out being in your face is a extremely vital story and message.”

Subsequent up, she needs to maintain doing somewhat little bit of every thing, together with operating Virgil Regular, the place now individuals cease in to speak concerning the movie in addition to store chef pants by L.A. workwear model Meals, snap again hats by Free And Straightforward, and the store’s personal model of Ts and hoodies with paintings urging “Let’s Get Good.”

“We’re surviving, I suppose, within the kind of post-COVID[-19] world,” Kurata says of the enterprise she opened in 2015 together with her husband Charlie Staunton. “I feel that having a way of neighborhood is actually vital to us, so it’s form of a labor of affection, you recognize? We’re not making some huge cash however it’s very fulfilling to have the ability to meet new individuals and showcase cool designers or artists and have a spot for individuals to hang around.”

In any case these years, Kurata continues to be impressed by L.A.

“The skate tradition, the surf tradition, it’s somewhat extra laid-back, and seeing individuals who aren’t a part of the hipster scene…” she says.

It’s its personal multiverse.

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